Samuel Adams makes good beer. They've been doing so for a long time. And for that they should be commended (and have been, again and again and again). My only beef with Jim Koch and the fine folks from the Boston Beer Company is that they tend to spread themselves a little thin. Sam Adams' name and likeness appears on hell of a lot of different beer labels, and not all of them are up to snuff. Such is the case with the brand's latest Summer Ale. Sure, it's light and citrusy like a good summer beer ought to be. But something's missing. Zest, perhaps? Yeah, that's it. There's no zest. It certainly isn't a bad brew, but it's just... just... boring. It's the Bonnie Hunt of beers. Nothing wrong with her. Been in a lot of cool flicks. But she's a role player, not a star. (Available April through August. SRP $7.99/6-pack)

Sam redeems himself with the new Imperial White. This wheat beer is part of the company's "big beer" line, and it delivers big time. It's made with a blend of two-row Harrington, Munich and Metcalfe malts, and Hallertau Mittelfrueh Noble hops. Robust, big and certainly not boring! An intense craft brew with high alcohol content, this baby is meant to be savored like a fine wine. (Available now. $9.99/4-pack)